Kabukichō 歌舞伎町

Three squat and unshaven men in khaki coats walked towards us, flanked by policemen. Mumbling to each other, they paid us little mind as they passed.“Yakuza”, one of my companions said. “Really?”They must have been low-level thugs, far below the slick, besuited rogues one imagines from cinema and video games. Kazuma Kiryuu, these guys were […]

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Adashino Nenbutsu-ji 化野念仏寺

We walked under a cloudburst of the brightest autumn hues we had witnessed this far into the trip. We were at Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, and after a morning milling around thousands of other tourists at Tenryu-ji and Arashiyama’s Bamboo Grove, we had ventured to the furthest periphery of Kyoto, where it meets the mountains and countryside […]

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